An izakaya is not a restaurant in the conventional sense. It is a Japanese-style gastropub where the line between drinking and dining blurs, and where the social ritual of sharing small plates over glasses of beer, sake, or shochu defines the evening. For first-time visitors in Hong Kong, the experience can be exhilarating but also bewildering. Unlike the serene formality of a omakase counter or the precise choreography of a sushi bar, an izakaya thrives on controlled chaos: loud conversations, communal plates, and a constant flow of orders. Knowing the etiquette transforms a confusing night into a memorable one. This guide explains the key rules, from how to enter and where to sit, to how to order, pour drinks, and settle the bill, so that you can enjoy an izakaya with confidence and respect.

Izakaya culture has deep roots in Japan, dating back to the early Edo period (1603-1868), when sake shops began offering simple snacks. Today, Hong Kong boasts dozens of izakayas, from intimate neighbourhood spots in Wan Chai to upscale chains in Tsim Sha Tsui. While the atmosphere is relaxed, there are clear expectations about behaviour. Ignoring them is not rude per se, but following them will earn you the quiet appreciation of staff and regulars. This article covers seating, ordering, drinking etiquette, handling food, paying, and a few common pitfalls to avoid.

Entering and Seating: First Impressions Count

When you step into an izakaya in Hong Kong, you will often be greeted with a chorus of “Irasshaimase!” (welcome) from the staff. It is customary to acknowledge this greeting with a slight nod or a quiet “Konnichiwa.” Do not be startled by the volume, it is part of the energy.

Shoe Removal and Seating Options

Some izakayas, particularly those with tatami (straw mat) rooms or raised tatami areas, require you to remove your shoes before entering. Look for a genkan (entryway) with shoe lockers or shelves. Place your shoes neatly with the toes pointing away from the dining area. If you are unsure, watch other guests or ask the host. In Hong Kong, many izakayas in commercial buildings (e.g., those in Lan Kwai Fong or Causeway Bay) use Western-style tables and chairs, so shoe removal is less common. However, if you are dining at a more traditional spot like Izakaya by Kikusan in Central or Hatsu Izakaya in Tsim Sha Tsui, check for tatami sections.

Seating is typically assigned by the host. You may be offered a counter seat (kauntā), a table (tēburu), or a tatami pit (horigotatsu). Counter seats are ideal for solo diners or couples who want to watch the chefs work. Tatami pits require you to sit cross-legged or with your legs under the table, avoid stretching your legs out straight, as this is considered impolite. If you have difficulty sitting on the floor, request a table with chairs. Many izakayas in Hong Kong have both options, so do not hesitate to ask.

What to Do with Your Belongings

Place your coat or bag on the provided rack, basket, or under the table. Do not drape jackets over the back of your chair if it blocks the aisle. In tatami rooms, never step on the zabuton (cushions) with your shoes; always remove footwear first.

Ordering: The Rhythm of an Izakaya Meal

Unlike a Western pub where you might order all at once, izakaya dining is incremental. The typical flow is: start with drinks, then order a few small dishes, then more as the evening progresses. This mirrors the Japanese concept of toriaezu, ordering something immediately to accompany the first round of drinks.

Start with Drinks

As soon as you are seated, the server will likely ask for your drink order. This is not a suggestion, it is expected. In Japan, it is considered odd to order food before drinks. Common first drinks include:

  • Beer (bīru): Usually a medium-sized bottle (633ml) or a draft glass (about 500ml). Popular brands: Asahi Super Dry, Sapporo, Kirin Ichiban. Expect to pay HKD 50-80 per glass in Hong Kong izakayas.
  • Sake (nihonshu): Often ordered by the flask (tokkuri) or glass. A 180ml serving ranges from HKD 80 to HKD 200 depending on the grade.
  • Shochu: A distilled spirit (barley, sweet potato, or rice). Served on the rocks, with water, or with soda. A single shot (30ml) costs roughly HKD 40-70.
  • Highball: Whisky and soda, very popular in modern izakayas. Expect HKD 60-100.

If you are unsure what to drink, ask the server for a recommendation, or simply say “Osusume wa nan desu ka?” (What do you recommend?). For a deeper dive, see our guide to izakaya drinks.

Ordering Food: Small Plates, Shared Style

After drinks arrive, order a few dishes. The menu is typically divided into categories: salada (salads), yakimono (grilled items), agemono (fried items), nabemono (hot pot), and shokuji (rice/noodles). A good rule of thumb is to order two to three dishes per person per round, and then reorder as needed. Do not order everything at once, the kitchen sends dishes out as they are ready, and the table should not become overcrowded.

Popular izakaya dishes in Hong Kong include:

  • Edamame: Salted soybeans in the pod. A classic starter.
  • Yakitori: Skewers of grilled chicken (negima, tsukune, etc.). Usually HKD 30-50 per skewer.
  • Karaage: Japanese fried chicken. A small plate costs HKD 60-90.
  • Takoyaki: Octopus balls with sauce and bonito flakes. HKD 50-70 for 6 pieces.
  • Sashimi: Fresh raw fish. A serving of 5-7 pieces costs HKD 120-250.
  • Okonomiyaki: Savoury pancake. HKD 80-130.
  • Ramen or soba: Often ordered at the end of the meal. HKD 80-150.

For a comprehensive list, read our Izakaya Food Guide.

How to Use the Paper Menu or Tablet

Many izakayas in Hong Kong now use tablets or QR code menus. If a paper menu is provided, treat it with care, do not write on it or fold it aggressively. When ordering by tablet, select items one at a time and confirm each order. If you need the server’s attention, say “Sumimasen” (excuse me) with a raised hand. Do not snap your fingers or shout.

Drinking Etiquette: Pouring, Toasting, and Pace

Drinking in an izakaya is a communal activity with specific customs. Observing them shows respect for your companions and the establishment.

Pouring for Others

Never pour your own drink. In Japanese drinking culture, it is customary to pour for others, and they will pour for you. When someone pours for you, hold your glass with both hands (or at least support it with one hand) and thank them with a nod or “Arigatou gozaimasu.” If you are pouring for someone else, hold the bottle with both hands (or one hand on the label side) and pour until the glass is full, but not overflowing. Do not let the bottle touch the glass.

When someone pours sake for you, it is polite to take a sip before setting the glass down. If you have had enough, leave a little liquid in your glass, an empty glass signals that you want a refill.

Toasts (Kanpai)

The first drink of the evening is always preceded by a toast. Wait until everyone at the table has a drink. Then, someone (often the host or the person who ordered the first round) will raise their glass and say “Kanpai!” (cheers). Everyone clinks glasses, do not clink too hard, and then drinks. It is considered rude to start drinking before the toast.

Pace and Refills

Izakaya evenings are meant to last two to three hours. Drink at a moderate pace; you are expected to order multiple rounds. If you are drinking beer, it is fine to order a new bottle when the previous one is empty. For sake, the server will often bring a new tokkuri when you finish one. If you want to switch drinks, simply order something new.

Food Etiquette: Handling Shared Plates

Izakaya dishes are meant to be shared. This affects how you serve yourself and how you interact with the food.

Using Chopsticks and Shared Serving Spoons

Each dish will typically come with a serving spoon or chopsticks. Use them to transfer food to your own small plate, do not use your personal chopsticks to pick food from a communal dish. If no serving utensil is provided, use the opposite end of your chopsticks (the end that has not touched your mouth) to take food. This is called gyaku-bashi (reverse chopsticks) and is standard practice.

When eating, lift your small bowl (e.g., a rice bowl or soup bowl) closer to your mouth instead of leaning down to the table. Do not hover over the communal plate. Chew with your mouth closed, and avoid making loud noises except when slurping noodles, slurping is acceptable and even encouraged for ramen or soba.

Dipping Sauces

Many izakaya dishes come with dipping sauces (e.g., yakitori with tare, gyoza with soy-vinegar). Do not double-dip. Pour a small amount of sauce into your own dish or use the provided squeeze bottle. For sashimi, mix a little wasabi into your soy sauce, but do not drown the fish. For more on sashimi, see our sashimi cut guide.

What Not to Do with Food

  • Do not stick chopsticks upright into a bowl of rice, this mimics a funeral ritual.
  • Do not pass food from your chopsticks to another person’s chopsticks, this also resembles a funeral practice (cremated bones are passed this way).
  • Do not wave chopsticks in the air or point with them.
  • Do not eat while walking around the izakaya, food should be consumed at the table.

Paying the Bill: Otōshō and Splitting

In many traditional izakayas in Japan, there is an automatic cover charge called otōshō (or zatsudai). This is a small appetiser (often a simple dish like edamame or a small salad) that is brought to your table as soon as you sit down, even if you did not order it. You are charged for it (typically JPY 300-500, or HKD 20-40 equivalent). In Hong Kong, some izakayas adopt this practice; others do not. Ask the server if you are unsure, but do not refuse the dish. It is part of the culture.

How to Ask for the Bill

When you are ready to leave, catch the server’s eye and make a small cross with your index fingers (like an “X”) or say “Okaikei onegaishimasu.” The bill is usually brought to the table on a small tray. Do not hand money directly to the server, place it on the tray. If paying by credit card, place the card on the tray as well.

Splitting the Bill

In Japan, it is common for one person (often the host or senior person) to pay the entire bill, but in Hong Kong, splitting is perfectly acceptable. Many izakayas allow separate payments, but it is polite to ask in advance. If you are splitting, gather the cash or cards and hand them together to the server. Tipping is not customary in Japan and is not expected in Hong Kong izakayas either. However, if service was exceptional, leaving a small tip (HKD 20-50) is appreciated but never required. For more on tipping, read our tipping guide, the principles overlap.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Even seasoned diners make mistakes. Here are the most frequent faux pas and how to sidestep them:

  • Arriving too early: Many izakayas in Hong Kong open for dinner at 6:00 PM or later. Arriving at 5:30 PM may mean the kitchen is not ready. Check opening hours on their website or Google Maps.
  • Not reserving: Popular izakayas (e.g., Yardbird in Sheung Wan, Ronan in Central) fill up quickly. Always book a table, especially on weekends. Walk-ins are possible at less busy times but risky.
  • Ordering too much too fast: As mentioned, pace your orders. If the table becomes cluttered, the staff may struggle to serve new dishes. Ask for a clear-out if needed.
  • Forgetting to order rice or noodles: Izakaya meals are not usually heavy on carbs, but if you want a starch to round off the meal, order it near the end. Many locals finish with ochazuke (green tea over rice) or a small bowl of ramen.
  • Being too loud: While izakayas are lively, excessive shouting or drunken behaviour is frowned upon. Keep your voice at a level that allows conversation at the table without disturbing neighbours.
  • Ignoring the “last order” call: Most izakayas in Hong Kong have a last order time (often 30 minutes before closing). If you hear “Last order, please,” place any final requests immediately.

Izakaya Etiquette in Hong Kong vs. Japan

While the core etiquette is the same, there are a few local adaptations. In Hong Kong, English is widely spoken, so you do not need to know Japanese phrases beyond the basics. However, using a few polite Japanese words (Sumimasen, Arigatou, Kanpai) is appreciated by staff and shows cultural awareness.

Another difference: in Japan, it is common to order a series of small dishes one by one, but in Hong Kong, many izakayas expect a larger initial order (3-5 dishes) because the kitchen is busier. Ask your server about their preferred ordering style. Also, in Hong Kong, it is acceptable to ask for modifications (e.g., no MSG, less salt) without causing offense, something that is less common in Japan.

For a broader context on Japanese dining in Hong Kong, refer to our complete guide to Japanese food in Hong Kong.

Final Thoughts: Enjoy the Experience

Izakaya etiquette is not about rigid rules, it is about creating a convivial atmosphere where everyone can relax, share food, and drink together. The most important thing is to be considerate of your companions and the staff. If you make a mistake, a simple “Sumimasen” and a smile will smooth things over. Over time, you will develop your own rhythm: the perfect order of dishes, the ideal drink pairing, the right moment to order a second round of yakitori.

Whether you are dining at a high-end izakaya in Tsim Sha Tsui or a casual spot in Mong Kok, remember that the spirit of the izakaya is nomunication, a Japanese portmanteau of “nomu” (to drink) and “communication.” So raise your glass, say “Kanpai,” and enjoy the evening.

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  • Izakaya Food Guide: What to Order
  • Izakaya Drinks: Sake, Shochu, Beer, and More
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  • Omakase Tipping Guide
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